Day Seven: “I know your eyes are open, don't forget!”

Sixty five years ago, to the day, the German Army began their final assault on the Allied Armies. On this day, the German army pushed over 800,000 soldiers into the Ardennes Forest. 600,000 Allied soldiers dug into foxholes to defend the 80 mile front. At 5:30 in the morning the first shots were fired in Hosingen, Luxembourg, and the infamous Battle of the Bulge had begun. With over 80,000 Allied casualties and 100,000 German casualties, the Battle of the Bulge was the most costly battle in United States history.

At 3:00 AM the wake up calls rang in the hotel rooms and we began our final day in Europe. By 4:00 AM we had boarded on the bus and headed to Hosingen, the site where the battle began. In this small city we joined the citizens, the major, and the American ambassador to Luxembourg in commemorating the battle. The ceremony began with the National anthem and ended with the veterans lying a wreath on the memorial. The ceremony ended as we were passed out torches and marched through the city in honor of their liberation. With the harsh wind and exhaustion coming down on us, we joined the city in eating breakfast in a local hotel.

After breakfast our group hopped on the bus and headed to Wiltz. On the drive to the city, some of the students began reminiscing about Don Allen. Don, or more commonly known as 2nd Armored, is a man full of laughter and always is entertaining the people around him. Even though Don is a little old school, one could easily see his big heart within minutes of conversing with him. Unfortunately, Don was feeling under the weather, and opted to stay at the hotel today. 2nd Armored was truly missed and we wished him a speedy recovery.

When we arrived in Wiltz, jumped off the bus and joined the citizens for our second commemoration ceremony. Just like the Belgians, the people of Luxembourg were very appreciative and honored to have our group with them. It was very refreshing to see the patriotism of the people from Luxembourg and Belgium. After the ceremony, the veterans laid another wreath on the memorial and celebrated with the local citizens.
Often at these ceremonies I find myself thinking about the veterans, and especially the ones who paid the ultimate price. In these special moments my chest will swell up and I will feel a deep sense of pride to be an American. At home, we can forget the price these men paid to enjoy the daily luxuries in the United States. Now that I have experienced the Ardennes forest with the veterans who fought in them, I will never forget that the actions of these men saved the world.

After a moving ceremony in Wiltz, it was back on the bus again for a little break before our next commemoration service. We enjoy great conversation and a good nap, own our drive to Luxembourg City. We walked around the town, taking in our last day in this beautiful country. We looked around at the historical buildings, shopped, and enjoyed hot drinks on our last cold day in Europe.

We arrived early at our next stop to beat the crowd. We walked up to the gates and were awed by the wonderful memorial at the Luxembourg American Cemetery. As we walked around the corner, we stood in awe looking at the over the marble crosses that stood for 5,076 of the brave men who gave up their lives for freedom. We walked through the rows of crosses paying our respects to the fallen men. Among them one of many great soldiers and leaders, General George S. Patton, Jr. Many soldiers paid there respects and told there students of their tales.

As we snuggled up under wool blankets, twelve veterans and many leaders and citizens listened, as we heard the ambassador speak. Then the they played the national anthems. Everyone stood and the veterans removed there hats as we joined in singing. We looked across the stone crosses, remembering the price the young soldiers paid.
After our final ceremony of the day, we headed back to the hotel for our farewell dinner. We each stood up and reflected on our last seven days. Our hearts were touched as our dear friend, 2nd Armor began to tear up as told the group how much this trip and the students meant to him. Everyone came together as a family as we shared from the bottom of our hearts. We thanked our new found grandfathers for an experience we could never learn from a history book, as they challenged us to pass on our new found knowledge and never forget. It has been a wonderful week and we wish it would not end.

Day Six: Out of the History Books and into the Forest

Our journey today began with a fierce and rugged game of soccer. The MVP “best kicker” award went to Jacob Sperry of the 75th division. At St. Vith we commemorated losses of the 106th division in which one of our veterans, Walter Greve, participated. After the ceremony we ventured to city hall in St. Vith where we enjoyed hot tea and coffee while visiting with the Mayor and other dignitaries. Walter Greve’s division entered the lines east of St. Vith where they were not supplied with proper winter gear, food, they were running low on ammunition and entering the lines with little combat experience.

Once again it was amazing to see that the Belgian people were quick in welcoming us. If only people in the United States could catch a glimpse of the recognition and honor which these Europeans have displayed they would have a better understanding of the importance of giving the veterans such high respect.

We had a wonderful and rare opportunity to have French Belgians who were children during the war, join us on our quest to locate the small village of Nueunstein, Germany. By the looks on their faces, it was apparent tell awestruck they were by the display of patriotism displayed by American soldiers 65 years ago. We surprised Mr. Gray by making an unexpected visit to a place not on the map. Listening to him reminisce about his experience was a far greater reward than we could have imagined. As we walked off the bus Ed Gray of the 87thdivision took us back 65 years where they captured 150 prisoners of the 45th Volks Grenadier; in doing so the company sustained high casualties of 22 men killed in action. As he told his story it was as if we were back there with him.

After the visit at Nuenstein we took a beautiful journey south through many significant battlefields through Diekirch Luxembourg. While in Diekirch we toured the National Military Museum and there before our eyes we saw the largest display of WWII artifacts; everything from weaponry to machinery to camp equipment. It was interesting to see a flag displayed made by American women with red stripes cut from Nazi flags.

We ended the day with a tour of the battlefield of Wiltz where the 28th infantry regiment was the first to confront the advancing Germans of December 16, 1944. We stood 12 wide in a bomb crater dropped by the United States Air Corps. We also had the pleasure of visiting the American National Monument in Bastogne, Belgium which honors all 50 states and divisional units from the United States Army. Thoughts of revving tanks and soldiers with trench feet 65 years ago clouded our minds as we looked upon our valiant veterans. Our lives are being changed every day by walking hand in hand with these men and listening to their stories of war. We are not merely reading history books in a classroom rather we are trekking through the same woods these soldiers spilled blood to purchase our freedom.

Day Five: Death in the Hollow Woods

“Here in this forest there are ghosts, ghosts of people whom I knew, ghosts of men who were killed. They didn’t have the privilege of going home; I did. Maybe in coming back I am paying a debt to them. The memories – the ghosts – are still there. They are there in the ‘Dragon Teeth,’ the bunkers and fox holes in the deep woods. They are there in the artifacts – and bodies – still being brought out of the forest. And those who come back forty years thereafter might know some of them by name.” ~ Captain Commanding G Company,Paul Boesch, 121st Inf, 8th US Inf. Division

Today was a day full of realization and insight. We spent most of our time with German veterans, touring the battlegrounds of the Hurtegen Forest and visiting the German defensive structures known as the Siegfried Line. Through these experiences, we all gained a new awareness of the German perception of the war.

The day started with a bus ride to Vossenack, Germany, where the German veterans were waiting for us at a hotel. There was a considerable amount of apprehension, and we had to remind one of our more vocal veterans to abstain from using words like “Kraut” or “Jerry” to refer to the men we were about to meet!  In we trooped, up the steps, around the corner, and there they stood: 3 surprisingly ordinary-looking men. The tension quickly melted away as our veterans warmly shook their hands and sat down side-by-side to watch a slide-show on the Battle of the Hurtegen Forest.

When the slide show ended, we hopped on the bus and headed to our first stop: the Siegfried Line. It was made up mainly of “Dragon’s Teeth,” concrete pyramids standing 5 feet high and placed along the western front to stop tanks from advancing into Germany. It was an emotional time as we stood on a beautiful hillside that had once been covered with hundreds of dead soldiers, killed trying to capture the bunker at the top of the ridge. Henry, one of the German veterans, fought back tears and found it difficult to join our group for pictures and discussion. Timothy explained that this kind of reaction is common among German veterans because they have few avenues for closure. Our eagerness to walk with them, get their autographs, and learn their stories was probably a rare experience for these men.

The reason for their lack of closure became increasingly evident as we visited a German WWII cemetery. The walls and monuments were carved from dark rock. Each tomb held two men, and the grave markers were laid flat on the ground. Even Walter Model, a 4-star general known for often opposing Hitler and defending his men’s honor, was buried with another man, and his grave was unadorned. As Klaus, one of the English-speaking, German veterans and our tour guide for the day, said, “The Germans just want to forget this part of their history.”

America is not exempt from this “selective memory.” The Battle of the Hurtegen Forest has been overshadowed by the Battle of the Bulge. But for twelve college students, walking under the tall, dark, fir trees of Hurtegenwald, this forgotten battle became a heavy reality. The snow muffled the sound of our footsteps as we walked past dozens of trenches, foxholes and even a lonely bombed-out bunker. These were all reminders that this silent forest was not always so peaceful and serene.

The day wasn’t entirely full of solemn reflection though. As we looked down one of the many steep hill-sides, Mandy suddenly leapt to her feet, exclaiming that she had seen a bear in the valley below. We all quickly crowded to the side of the bus, pressing our faces to the glass to get a better look. Indeed there was a large, black shape at the bottom of the hill! But why was it eating grass? And standing in a fenced-in pasture? Did it have a mane? Indeed, upon closer inspection, we realized that Mandy’s bear was actually a Shetland pony. :-) Oh well! Ray, one of our oldest veterans, remains convinced that we did see, not one, but three bears in the hills of Germany.

Day Four: Remember the Fallen

Yesterday when we were given a briefing for today’s plans, we knew it was going to be another busy day. We left after another great breakfast and set off to Liege, Belgium to the Ardennes Cemetery. This cemetery has about 5,300 graves of soldiers many of whom fought on the northern border of the Bulge.

Upon our arrival, we were greeted and assisted by an employee of the grounds. He helped us and our veterans by searching through all the names of the fallen who rest in the Ardennes Cemetery and printing out the names connected to each veteran’s division, allowing each veteran to seek out any lost comrades. Just seeing the vast amount of graves was sobering especially when one of the veterans would find someone who had been close to them. Even more sobering is the fact that more than 700 soldiers’ remains are in the cemetery, yet to be identified.

Following the Ardennes Cemetery, we proceeded to Malmedy, where we returned to the Baugnez 44 Historical Center in celebration of the opening of their museum and the 65th Commemoration of the Malmedy Massacre. Over 90 American POWs and Belgian citizens were massacred by the SS Panzer Division here. Each year for the first fifty years a commemoration has been held at the center of this site. As our veterans were once again front and center, we witnessed a touching ceremony where we were amazed, as so many times before on this trip, by the citizens’ deep gratitude for the service of those who fought in World War II.

In memory of those who lost their lives, white balloons were released at the service by the youth of the community. Belgians holding their nation’s flag, as well as our own American Color Guard, proudly displayed national colors, and afterwards one of our veterans, Jacob “Brian” Sperry, placed a wreath on a commemorative stone. Local clergy prayed for peace and after the service ended, we all headed back to the museum as guests of honor at a celebratory gathering. Everyone came up to our veterans to thank them and to take their pictures or to get their autographs. Among the attendants were not only civilians, but also some of our own American military, including Col. Michael P. Saulnier, Commander of Headquarters Support Group at NATO.

After the celebratory gathering, we headed to Henri-Chapelle American Cemetery. This cemetery holds over 7,000 men who fought in the Ardennes. While at this cemetery we laid a wreath for a friend of one of the students in the group. After laying the wreath and a moment of silence, we continued on to find comrades of one of our veterans. We were there at dusk and the winter weather was setting in. Most of the veterans went inside after the wreath-laying because the wind was bitter cold. It is so hard to imagine these men living day in and day out during their service here.

Since the dark was moving in, we did not stay long at Henri-Chapelle Cemetery. We headed to the town of Eupen in search of a place that could serve 25 people. This was difficult because Eupen’s Christmas Market was heavily attended and all the restaurants were packed. We finally stumbled upon an authentic Turkish restaurant where we eagerly consumed gyros. Afterwards we got to do some shopping in the market. As another day ends, we can only imagine what tomorrow holds for us. Every day so far has been saturated with history and it’s hard for us to absorb it all. Traveling with these veterans is giving us the opportunity to live and breathe history with the men who have actually lived it, and being a participant is an unbelievable experience.

Victoria and Liliana

Day Three: Preserving Our History

Yesterday when we were given a briefing for today’s plans, we knew it was going to be another busy day. We left after another great breakfast and set off to Liege, Belgium to the Ardennes Cemetery. This cemetery has about 5,300 graves of soldiers many of whom fought on the northern border of the Bulge.

Upon our arrival, we were greeted and assisted by an employee of the grounds. He helped us and our veterans by searching through all the names of the fallen who rest in the Ardennes Cemetery and printing out the names connected to each veteran’s division, allowing each veteran to seek out any lost comrades. Just seeing the vast amount of graves was sobering especially when one of the veterans would find someone who had been close to them. Even more sobering is the fact that more than 700 soldiers’ remains are in the cemetery, yet to be identified.

Following the Ardennes Cemetery, we proceeded to Malmedy, where we returned to the Baugnez 44 Historical Center in celebration of the opening of their museum and the 65th Commemoration of the Malmedy Massacre. Over 90 American POWs and Belgian citizens were massacred by the SS Panzer Division here. Each year for the first fifty years a commemoration has been held at the center of this site. As our veterans were once again front and center, we witnessed a touching ceremony where we were amazed, as so many times before on this trip, by the citizens’ deep gratitude for the service of those who fought in World War II.

In memory of those who lost their lives, white balloons were released at the service by the youth of the community. Belgians holding their nation’s flag, as well as our own American Color Guard, proudly displayed national colors, and afterwards one of our veterans, Jacob “Brian” Sperry, placed a wreath on a commemorative stone. Local clergy prayed for peace and after the service ended, we all headed back to the museum as guests of honor at a celebratory gathering. Everyone came up to our veterans to thank them and to take their pictures or to get their autographs. Among the attendants were not only civilians, but also some of our own American military, including Col. Michael P. Saulnier, Commander of Headquarters Support Group at NATO.

After the celebratory gathering, we headed to Henri-Chapelle American Cemetery. This cemetery holds over 7,000 men who fought in the Ardennes. While at this cemetery we laid a wreath for a friend of one of the students in the group. After laying the wreath and a moment of silence, we continued on to find comrades of one of our veterans. We were there at dusk and the winter weather was setting in. Most of the veterans went inside after the wreath-laying because the wind was bitter cold. It is so hard to imagine these men living day in and day out during their service here.

Since the dark was moving in, we did not stay long at Henri-Chapelle Cemetery. We headed to the town of Eupen in search of a place that could serve 25 people. This was difficult because Eupen’s Christmas Market was heavily attended and all the restaurants were packed. We finally stumbled upon an authentic Turkish restaurant where we eagerly consumed gyros. Afterwards we got to do some shopping in the market. As another day ends, we can only imagine what tomorrow holds for us. Every day so far has been saturated with history and it’s hard for us to absorb it all. Traveling with these veterans is giving us the opportunity to live and breathe history with the men who have actually lived it, and being a participant is an unbelievable experience.

Victoria and Liliana

Day Two: Our Journey Begins

Day Two - Our Journey Begins

Today our group started by going through the town of Spa at the foot hill of our boutique-like Radisson Hotel. Our first stop was at a museum in La Gleize-Stoumont where our bus was met head-on by an enormous German Tiger Tank. There the Veterans told us their experiences battling these jugernauts of the German offensive. The museum was initially closed but with the local's generousity we were able to have a "special tour." The photos and memorabilia helped create an ice breaker for the Veterans who were able to then recount many stories about the war.

Next our journey led us to a forgotten story of German atrocities where eleven brave African Americans from the 333rd Division sacrificed their lives while giving the 106th Airborn Division covering fire for their escape. The Germans then captured, tortured, and executed this selfless group of brave men. There was a reverent aura in the group as we prayed for these little-known heroes.

After the visit to the memorial, we traveled to the quaint village of Monschau, Germany in order to visit a Christmas Market. There the locals displayed their foods, and crafts in a festival of lights and music that was quite enjoyable. Dinner was German cuisine of Schnitzel, Sausage and Goulash, and of course, Pomme de Frites (french fries).

To conclude our night, our presence was requested as VIP's at a grand opening of a new museum, "Baugnez 44 Historical Center." Veteran, Bill Colwell, was given the honor of cutting the ribbon. The Veterans were treated like celebrities as everyone was asking for their autographs and their pictures. As we toured this new museum, once again, our Veteran's mouths were filled with their dramatic experiences in the various locations of the Battle of the Bulge. The Veterans were escorted by their students, via red-carpet, to a party where they were welcomed by many French, German, and Belgium citizens. During their time at the dance, many Veterans took advantage of the dance floor by requesting a dance with their female students. The generosity and gratitude shown by these individuals was unlike anything seen before. This genuine level of respect should be given to all Veterans for the gifts of freedom they have given to numerous countries all over the world.

Day One: We have Arrived...

"We have arrived"

Here we are two blessed College of the Ozarks students embarking on the journey to discovering the hearts of WWII veterans. We have joined with the Greatest Generations Foundation to commemorate the 65^th anniversary of the Battle of the Bulge.

Sitting on the plane from Springfield to Chicago, a rush of thoughts raced through our heads; how does one begin to understand what these men have sacrificed for us? The little amount we have spent with our veterans is opening doors and revealing the substantial price these men paid for our freedom.

The moment we met our veterans, their willingness to share was evident. The complexities of the stories are far beyond our comprehension right now, yet we anxiously wait for their stories to unfold as the week progresses.

Who are we to receive such an honorable opportunity to experience first-hand stories which have been hidden in these veterans’ hearts longing to be heard? We are beginning to feel the weight of responsibility which has been in the minds of these men for 65 years.

From our hotel, we can see the Ardennes Forest which took the lives of 19,000 Americans. To people who are passing by, this is just a hotel. To us, we know the perseverance and valor displayed here 65 years ago, until next time…Tomorrow we look forward to a day in Monschu, Germany for a visit to the Christmas markets.

Sincerely,

Mandy & Toby
College of the Ozarks and The Greatest Generations Foundation

Here is a video of the highlights of our first dinner together.

Battle of the Bulge Trip 2009

We all meet in Chicago. Hope the weather is good to fly.